When I leave Puebla it’s still more than 620km to Puerto Escondido and some mountains in between that I need to pass. I have calculated 6 days for this knowing that it will be a challenge. But since the past weeks were rather relaxing with a lot of rest days I‘m actually looking forward to it.
But the first day starts with a massive load of bad luck. At first my gps routes me via a strange path which also involves pushing my bike through something that looks and smells like a trash deposit. This actually results in several flats and slows me down for more than an hour. Later that day I also smash my phone while looking for direction and as it gets dark I feel that I have collected another flat. I’m frustrated and check for a hotel close by but all I understand from the locals is that I would have to cycle about five km in what I consider the wrong direction. So I actually decide to look for a quiet spot to camp close by and solve the puncture the next morning. While I’m rolling out of town with the last bit of air left in my tire I hear someone screaming to stop and come over. It’s the guy from the gas station. I pull over and ask him whether I can setup my tent at his place and he is more than happy to help me out. In return I have to drink some beers with him and share my stories from the road. Later in the evening he even drives to a nearby restaurant to bring me some food and of course I also need to finish it all with a few Mescals.
The next morning after I had fixed my flat I continue my journey further south. There are still almost 580km remaining to get to Puerto Escondido and the terrain is getting more hilly again. At first it’s still more a desert like look with yellow grass and a lot of rocks but after the third day of this tour I finally arrive in jungle like territory. IT’s pure joy to ride through streets which are covered by a green roof and here the birds making a lot of noise. Shortly after I passed Putla Villa de Guerrero I turn off the main road. According to my GPS device it’s supposed to be paved but after a few kilometers it turns into a dirt road. In the beginning I don’t really care and still enjoy the beautiful nature. But when this road continues to be this bad also the next day I start getting annoyed. It’s extremely difficult on the uphill parts and on the downhills I also need to be fully focused and slide down with reduced speed as I need to avoid the big rocks and potholes which are all over the place. This slows me down tremendously and on the morning of my last day I still have 170km to go till Puerto Escondido out of which at least another 30km will be on dirt road again. So my plan is too start really early in order to have a chance to make it to Puerto Escondido before it gets dark.
The first km on that day are as tough as the days before and I only progress with an average speed of 7km/h. Luckily the road conditions get better after 30km and I can now speed up a little bit. By 2:00 pm I’m back on the main road (MEX200) and I have only one climb left up to Santiago Jamiltepec. I stop in the town to get some drinks. My bike computer tells me it’s more than 40 degrees Celsius and I can feel how the heat is draining my energy. At the kiosk where I stop I get invited by some locals to sit at there table. It’s a fun break for 30 minutes and they even perform some songs for me before I get back on my bike. From here it’s still 100km to Puerto Escondido and I can foresee that I will not be making it before sunset. The last hour of that day I have to ride in the dark. Fortunately this road feels pretty safe but I am super happy when I finally arrive in town and my warmshowers host Jim awaits me with an awesome salad and a beer.